A popular 42’ Center Cockpit Maple Leaf built by Svends Yachts Ltd. The boat features a great layout with fore and aft staterooms and 2 heads, a walk in engine room with work bench, hard top with full enclosure at the helm and factory fiberglass decks. The boat runs great and is ready to sail.“Interior hand built in teak by a professional Danish Shipright and cabinet maker”“hull laid up to the best standards and materials by a professional fiberglassing yard.”
2017 IS HERE, PRICE JUST REDUCED
Sails : MAIN, 140%, 110%, JIB, STAYSAIL, TRI SAIL,SPINNAKER
2 BARLOW # 32 ST WINCHES
2 BARLOW # 24 ST WINCHES
ROLLE FURLING IN HEADSAIL (HOOD)
SLAG ON MAIN
From the owner
Windbird is basically a sloop. But for variety it has a portable inner forestay in the foretriangle and a cutter jib to rig on it. In heavier weather to windward one would reef the main, raise this sail and run up a small jib on the fore triangle. This might be helpful for trying to claw to windward in moderate winds of say28 to 40 knots. I’ve never done it. It would give minimum heel with maximum pull forward and would be an exciting time indeed.
I have owned the boat since 1994, 22 years now.
I bought it from a couple who had Windbird for five years, 1989-1994. who had sailed her to Mexico, then over to Hawaii before coming back home in 1994. Before that I recall that owner two bought her around 1984. The builder was an insurance man who launched her in late December 1979, but those difficult times caused him sufficient financial problems to necessitate his having to sell her.
Entirely made in the Vancouver area, the contract was made with Svends Yachts ltd of North Vancouver. The principle of that company made and owned the mold but contracted the fiber glassing work to an excellent company in Richmond named Marcos Yachts. This buyer was very lucky to be able to engage the owner of Svends Yachts to do the finishing work. Svend was fifteen years old and lived in Denmark at the end of the war. He apprenticed to local shipyards as a sort of finishing Marine cabinet maker. He was finished in the ways of ‘book matching’ teak paneling.His boats are the finest finished boats on this coast. If he were available today to finish a yacht, it would cost a pretty penny indeed. Svend is still alive today and is very alert and knowledgeable.
Power: The diesel engine is the original one from 1979. It is an engine that was used in the seventies in thousands of forklifts in North America and in many workboats and fish boats here on the west coast. A marine mechanic once told me that one should expect to have any serious repair needs until at least 13,000 hours and we’re a long way from there yet. I see from documents that I inherited that it had a valve replaced on warranty. This is by my recollection. There exists with the boat a flat pack of all the relevant gaskets for head replacement as part of emergency kit. The motor starts easily and runs well. Oil changes done every 100 hours without exception and this is shown by the maintenance record. There has been constant repair and replacement of all ancillary parts of the engine.
All new hoses to oil coolers.
New oil coolers (Nickel copper) 2015.
New hoses and connectors on fuel lines 2015.
Fuel filters changed constantly.
Large day tank was repaired (1995) and checked and found to have NO dirt inside.
Main heat exchanger cleaned out 2015. Spare main heat exchanger also maintained and provided.
Engine coolant last changed around 2014. Diesel antifreeze from Canadian Tire. Note that the drain plug is small and behind the starter motor.
New starter motor 2014, aluminum case. Original unit steel case and is in a locker. It works, but should have a new solenoid and brushes perhaps. Note that this starter has a unique Bendix gear. Don’t lose it.
The coolant water pump is a heavy-duty unit. It was replaced before 2000 as I could buy a new one for a good price. The old one is in a locker and is good or can be easily rebuilt with a new standard seal and bearing.
coolant water traverses from the pump to a cooler at the aft of the engine via a stainless-steel tube that I had built specifically after the original rusted. The replacement part from Nissan was only available in the original mild steel so I had this one built in stainless.
Electric diesel heater primers have been all changed and tested routinely as per maintenance document.
An integral part of the starting system involves two external solenoids. Both are replaced in 2015.
One solenoid fed by toggle switch on engine controls, switches power to the solenoids.
Second solenoid fed via 'start' position of key switches power to the solenoid on the starter motor which then energizes the starter motor and actuates the Bendix (all new on the new starter)
Salt water to the heat exchanger is provided by a special belt-run bronze pump on the front right side of the engine. Pay attention as the belt is a specific length and there is a spare belt close by. Note that this belt must be installed very loosely with very little tension. The two bearings on the pump shaft are very close together and can’t survive much sideways torque. The fact of the existence of three rebuilt spares of this pump will attest to that.
The four rubber engine supports have been replaced in recent years.
This is an original engine provided by Chrysler Marine which closed operations shortly after the launching of Windbird. The local marine engine provider continued to import these Nissan engines and do their own marinization. This has been one of the most successful and endurable marine diesel engines every made. Having six cylinders makes it a bit long for the engine room, but gives it a tremendous quietness and smoothness for which it is appreciated.
From the exhaust manifold toward aft, the solid exhaust has all been replaced a couple of years and only a few running hours ago. Starting with a standard Chrysler 2 1/2 inch adapter; to a new stainless steel vibration length; then into new 3 inch stainless thin wall tubing. Exhaust rises well above water line height and then down and across where it connects to 3-inch rubber tubing. This rubber section continues as original so one day it will need replacement. I'd be replacing the stainless-steel exhaust tube port at the transom next time Windbird is brought out of water. When hoses are clamped over stainless steel there tends to get pit corrosion which is what you'd be watching for.
All the stainless steel is wrapped in fiberglass woven tape to protect a human from being burned. The spent salt water from the heat exchanger is injected into the stainless exhaust pipe up towards the top at the middle of the drop. This cools the setup before the exhaust, now wet, enters the rubber tubing. There is an exhaust silencer of rubber in the line as well and it works well.
Twelve-volt power is supplied by a standard small case automotive alternator fed by two belts and on the front left of the engine. Originally this was a 35 amp Motorola unit that was standard in those days. When I bought Windbird, it had been changed to a modern 'hi power' unit of about 110 amps. Originally it was an Ample Power product. It has been changed several times. Ample Power is a company that no longer exists but there are many other manufacturers of similar units. Two belts gives better performance with much less side torque required so the bearings last longer. The constant limitation has always been the manufacture of diodes that can handle the heat in the boat engine room.
Voltage regulation in a marine installation is unique and a dual installation exists in Windbird. Originally with an Ample Power 3-step regulator controller, it now has a locally manufactured unit (River Marine). Note that a simple regulator also exists. If the 3 step fails, you can throw both toggle switches to the other side, and it will regulate to 14.5 volts DC until you can replace or repair the 3-step unit.
Batteries: Engine starting is provided by one lead acid 8D size battery
house system is provided by four 6-volt lead acid golf cart batteries in two series of two in parallel. That gives over 200 amp hours for the house.
Date of last replacement of all batteries is in the maintenance documents. They all seem to be in good condition, but batteries are something that needs constant monitory. They've been always kept up and in good condition, by me, but a cell can go bad anytime and one must watch for such a problem. Batteries are all accessible under the floor and cabinet in the aft salon. a specific gravity meter is in the head. Any of these batteries could be replaced readily by more modern and smaller lithium-ion batteries. They're lighter but more expensive.
There exists in the main salon an Ample Power electric monitor unit that counts amp hour input and output and gives battery status. It may take a bit of application to get it to work to your satisfaction. It is a very vital and valuable piece of equipment.
One aspect of this engine installation is quite unusual. Obviously, no expense was withheld to maximize the quality of installation. The engine and the Paragon gear are not coupled with the usual lateral spring loaded disc (like a clutch plate). Instead there are two meshing steel sets of fingers each loaded with circles of rubber. Drive is achieved by rotating these fingers (Like clock hands) in rotation. The ones driven by the engine hit the ones that rotate the gear box. This is never quiet and never clunky. When I inspected these, I found them to be in perfect condition and was no longer concerned about having to replace them.
The gear itself is by Paragon. I think it is 2.9:1 reduction allowing a large propeller. It is a heavily cast steel case that is capable of handling more power than the Nissan is providing. Around 2010, the rear seal began to leak transmission fluid. I removed the gear and had it rebuilt by Marisol Marine in North Vancouver, basically that amounted to a few seals and gaskets. But I also had a new massive thrust bearing installed (cost $1000) just on spec. The leaking shaft had some pitting and I had them lathe it down and rebuild. I asked for chrome on the rebuild, but I got no information if that was done. It will continue to run forever. Annual maintenance involves sucking out and measuring as much fluid as possible and replacing that amount. Of course, the fluid was all drained on the rebuild.
The drive shaft itself is 1 3/8 inch diameter stainless steel. The prop is a local built Campbell Sailor prop as I recall 19 inch. Cruising is done 1400 to 1750 engine RPM.
there are various pencil zincs in the engine room in the heat exchanger, both oil heat exchangers and in the refrigeration exchanger through which the raw coolant water flows. Details all listed in the maintenance book.
This is a top model of an original inventor/manufacturer whose name escapes me. I updated it with the addition of a full featured voltmeter, and a battery charger module back in the late nineties. All three functions have worked flawlessly ever since. Two considerations: If it is turned on at the dock and in your absence, the shore power fails, it has no disconnect control. it will make power for onboard devices from the batteries. (since this just drain the batteries while trying to charge them it needs to be avoided. It doesn’t revert to normal if the power comes back) Two: Do not run the inverter while under autopilot. the power cables create an EMF that pulls the compass disc far off and causes a sudden turn. ie you must hand steer while the coffee is warming.!
Originally Wagner. changed about ten years ago to a ComNav unit. Fluid has been drained and changed twice. drain at stern from slave cylinder.
The second owner installed a diesel generator. The third owner removed it and installed a water maker. In 22 years I have never operated the water maker. It should not be advertised as a credible unit. I expect it to be defunct and non-repairable. I haven’t had time to remove it.
Solar panels exist but are aged. Continue to put out 2.5 amps and run under voltage controller. An ammeter in line exists in aft cabin facing forward for easy observation.
They are mounted atop a heavily built radar arch above the transom.
Was all replaced new around 2012 and is in excellent condition. At the time, new foam mattress and ventilating screen underneath was installed.
The aft cabin has the only double bed. the forward cabin has two full length bunks for singles.
Refrigeration: The fridge itself is built in with teak and massive insulated door. containment of cold is excellent and requires running of coolant system only once a day if you are very careful on a hot day. Associated with it and sharing a wall is a large top load freezer. Both have thick polyurethane block insulation.
There is a standard 110vac driven compressor in the engine room to cool both the above. While at sea, one runs the belt driven compressor to maintain the freezer and fridge.
Both are running R134A refrigerant, although the two connectors on each have not been converted to the more common bayonnet connectors. If at anchor you can run the engine at 1100 to 1400 RPM to run this system.
port and starboard belly tanks under sole. I put in 225 liters per or 50 Gals Imperial, but they can take a lot more. There are fiberglass and have never leaked.
port and starboard belly tanks also under sole. At least 75 gals imp per. can’t remember, but it’s a massive amount of water. fiberglass and never leaked.
Holding tank is under the companionway stair and is stainless steel.
I've never used external fuel polishing. Instead I use a biocide on every fill and a product that helps to distribute water in the fuel rather than separating out. When I got Windbird the fuel was filthy with either microorganism growth or fine material. That was quickly removed within two years and the fuel seems always clean now in the sight tube and the viewing glass in the Racor filter. I was surprised to find absolutely NO sediment in day tank bottom when I looked inside. I'd recommend that periodically you pump fuel up to the daytank while you are bouncing around and underway. This way any sediment in the fuel would be lifted thru the filters and removed. But be warned that when underway other things like navigating consume your attention and you need to keep track of time so that you only run the pump for a few minutes or it will overflow into the ocean. Both tanks are kept very low in fuel to keep it lighter for the tide grid.
Hull deck etc:
Windbird is made of the finest fiberglass materials. I have never had any problem with the structure in any way. There is no crazing of gel coat anywhere on the deck near stanchions (usual site).
As mentioned the hull and deck were layer up by Marcos Yachts in Richmond per the original glassing specs by the designer Stan Huntingford of West Vanc. The scantlings for this layup are substantial. There is minimum three layers 24 ounce woven roving’s on either side of a 5/8 inch PVC (polyvinyl chloride) foam (Klegecel) giving a hull thickness of about 1 1/8 inch. I'm recalling that it might be Klegecel. This gives the panel a rigidity that exceeds that of the equivalent amount of fir board. Hence the total lack of crazing in the gelcoat from flexion. The deck is a similar glass layup but with end grain balsa as I recall. Klegecel is a top brand of this PVC core.
I own a moisture meter for fiberglass. I've never found any indication of contained moisture in any of the fiberglass sections that I have checked with it. And yes, the tool has diagnosed moisture in the glass of other boats.
The core stops at the waterline and continues with solid fiberglass that is very thick down and across the bottom of the bilge. all visible f/g sections are massive.
There has never been any flexion of the deck sections (balsa core) and lack of crazing indicates that.
It may be that a prospective buyer doesn’t understand about the values that PVC coring brings to fiberglass structures due to ones lack of knowledge about it. Some untrained detractors propose that it is just a cheap filler material. That is far from the truth. There is training available to teach how properly installed core materials vastly improve a fiberglass panel.
The hull/deck structure is monococque in nature. There is no caulked/bolted joint. After their layup the deck is presented to the deck and glued together with resin as a start. Then the inside of the two are joined with a heavy layup of fiber glassing that connects to the hull and then around the corner at the gunwale and across the underside of the walkway of the deck. This makes the joint very thick indeed and very rigid, and it makes the connection of the two-major parts waterproof. It has a second benefit of creating a massive linear strong point for the insertion from below of the heavy stainless steel chain plates for the mast stays. (which are then heavily over glassed again. The tension from these stays thus pulls the hull/deck sections together (rather than apart) and allows the tension load to be translated directly down to the hull as tension (spread out over these rigid hull sections). The tension also might translate into compression onto the bulkheads in the vicinity.
Thus, this is not any leakage in the hull or deck or their connection point. Of course, any fitting in the deck can fail sometime e.g. one of the legs of the radar arch is mounted over a hole in the deck thru which the power cables for the solar panels pass. Water ingression integrity here is dependent on the caulk sealant at the base and of the sealant at the hole where the wires enter into the s.s.tube above. This happened once and the owner needs to keep an eye on the seal where these wires enter the tube.
There is no teak decking. It is a major mistake. It requires being screwed to a waterproof deck of fiberglass and this is counterproductive. Also, it absorbs an awful lot of heat in the summer sun, conducts it thru the deck material, and leads to uncomfortable hot conditions below.
There is a heavy glass deck light in a bronze housing above the galley that is embedded in caulking. This loses adhesion and requires re-bedding sometimes, I’ve only done it once.
In the early 90's, the boat was hauled and the hull from the waterline down was stripped of copper paint and gel coat and thoroughly dried and a heavy epoxy barrier was applied.
Initially it was painted with a blue vinyl bottom paint. I have kept it painted on an annual basis with oil based paint which has not consistently adhered to the vinyl blue. This allows the existence of water blisters in the layers of bottom paint. There may well appear to be some small blisters below this in the interface between the copper paint layers. It is not a problem.
In addition, it appears that the cast steel keel (about 8500lbs) has been encapsulated in the same fashion. there appears to be no problem at all with this keel and salt water. It has never been aground or been introduced to rocks of any sort in my ownership and thus it has no cosmetic problems.
Opening ports number I think number nine. On the hull are heavy bronze cast port lights. Elsewhere on the coamings of the house are aluminum lights four with sliding glass. There is a cast exit hatch on the aft coaming (Chromed aluminum?), and another above the main salon. Also, two fiberglass hatches. one in the main head and one in the V berth area. This gives sufficient air flow through the boat at anchor to keep it cool in summer. The ports in the hull are of heavy cast bronze. In the coach house, they are in aluminum frames.
One Dickinson Alaska heater in main salon. In aft cabin, there is a smaller heater using diesel that is not hooked up and never been used.
In addition, under the salon companionway is a large bus heater run by hot water from the engine.
All parts of the above water hull and deck are made of foam cored material. Doing this was an insistence of the designer, Mr Huntingford. Not only does it provide such great strength to the fiberglass sections but it provides a thermal break. The result is that there is NO condensation in this boat, and it is warmer and drier than any single skin boat could ever be.
In addition, I recommend that the buyer take and use the advanced dehumidifier while they are not on board. This is a unique machine that works well in winter keeping the boat very dry. It's designed not to freeze up at lower temperatures like cheaper units do. Low winter humidity is vital for avoiding surface molds.
The anchoring system.
There are two 45 lb. CQR anchors. One is on deck with 150 feet of 3/8 chain. One is in the bilge for emergency use with a coiled rope. It is a CQR brand copy. The deck anchor is run by a Lofrans Tigres electric winch. Power to the bow is armed by a solenoid beside the batteries and a switch at the helm. Up/down is by a two-pole switch at the engine controls that operate two more solenoids in the chain locker. Thus, power up or power down is provided. The winch takes a basic current of about 90 amps of 12 volts current. Breaking free of the bottom takes up to a third more current and a specific technique in operation. There is a current monitor at the helm to observe the current load under retrieval so that excessive drain can be avoided. If it pegs at 150 amps, then alternate retrieval technique is called for. It is a superb system that is very effective with the exception that the chain tends to pile up in the locker and attention is required to lower the pile. There is a small electric switch outside the chain locker that energizes a group of LED lights inside the locker.
There is a dinghy hanging on the transom. I have been advised to leave it in place, but it is an old unit and very tired. It held air when I last used it. It is a 3.3 meter Achilles model and made of robust neoprene material.
There is no outboard engine to come with the boat/dinghy.
steering is from a cockpit helm location using our coastal standard manual hydraulic steering pump by Wagner. Helm is 3 full turns lock to lock and is powerful and easy to turn with the stainless-steel wheel.
There are two showers; one in each head. each head has a basin with running water.
Windbird has been updated with new fixtures and all LED lighting. Current drain is minimal and it is generally very bright everywhere which is an oddity in most boats. There is excellent lighting in the galley and over the salon table. All sitting areas have good LED lighting for reading. Most lockers have a LED light to assist viewing. In the aft cabin, you will find a LED light in every locker and at the head and foot of each berth. In addition, the ceiling of the aft cabin has two LED light assemblies each with two independent sets of Led lights. One of these is a red LED light for night use. Each head has two LED light fixtures and one of them has red LEDs only so that the head can be lighted at night for general use without affecting the eyes.
In addition, you will find in the engine room many LED light installations. Working on a bilge mounted motor requires holding a flashlight in one’s mouth. There are I think, six sets of LED lights above and low beside the engine sides and ends that make maintenance and observation much easier and a joy to do.
1666 Duranleau Street
Vancouver, BC V6H 3S4